Double your Fun with the Double T Quilt Block Tutorial

Skill Level: Confident Beginner

The Double T quilt block is constructed with four pairs of Flying Geese and 5 solid, cut squares using just two fabrics.

While there are several methods to make Flying Geese units (click here to see some of them), my preferred technique is paper piecing when the units are stacked.

It's less likely that the top point of a 'goose' will be lopped off when the units are stitched together.

The trade-off for this accuracy is removing the paper. Not a bad deal in my opinion!

You may know this block by one of its alternate names, 'Capital T' or 'Cut the Corners'.

On this page you'll find the needed paperpiecing patterns in 5 different sizes for download and step-by-step instructions to make the block.

Let's get started!

Use a dab of Elmer's Glue Stick—the one that goes on purple and dries clear—position the back side of #1 to the unprinted side of your paper pattern as shown below. (It should extend past the dotted line on the outside edge of the block, see the red arrow.)

With right sides together (RST) align the long bias edge of a small #2 triangle with one side #1. It doesn't matter which side you add this triangle to first, just be consistent if you're making a large number of blocks.

From the printed side, stitch the seam. Start before and end after the solid line as indicated in the photo below. Subsequent lines of stitching will secure these seams so there is no need to backstitch.

Press. By using starched quilt fabric, finger-pressing is perfect for this short seam.

Add the second sky triangle to the opposite side in the same manner to complete the first flying geese unit.

Press.

To add the second goose patch, with RST align #3 with the first completed Flying Goose. The long cut edge of #3 should extend a scant quarter inch past the stitching line.

In the picture below, you can see the points of #3 sticking out past the edges of the pattern. Use them to eyeball placement.

Then stitch, again starting and ending approximately a 1/4" from the solid line.

Before pressing, take a look at your block to determine if the darker fabric will shadow through the top.

In this case it does, so I will use a scissor to trim the darker seam allowance(red)...

...so that it doesn't show past the lighter, green SA.

Press.

Add the #4 triangles just as the #2's were added.

Once the stitching is done, trim stray threads from the center of the block.

To trim the block to size, align the 1/4" line of your ruler with the solid black outline of the block and trim with your rotary cutter. Repeat for each side of every pieced unit in your Double T quilt block.

Lay out the units of your Double T quilt block into rows like this.

Sew the units of your Double T together into rows with a quarter inch SA (remember to reduce your stitch to a normal length and install your 1/4" foot). Press the SAs in the direction of the arrows, away from the Flying Geese Pairs.

To prevent shadowing through, trim the darker SA with a scissor (below).

Stitch the rows together; the nesting SAs help to make matching the seamlines easier.

The finished Double T quilt block looks like this...

OK...I admit to being stumped.

I've squinted my eyes and turned this block every which way. For the life of me, I can't figure out why this is called a 'Double T' quilt block.

Can you?