SA - seam allowance
RST - right sides together
BW - Brave World units
FG - Flying Geese units
FGSides - Flying Geese sides...well this isn't exactly an abbreviation but I didn't want you think it was a typo later on... :)
Bac - Background fabric

A 1/4" SA is used throughout this tutorial.

When pressing, first press the patches in the closed position just as they came off your sewing machine. This sets the seam, melding the fibers of the threads into the fibers of the fabric.

Then press the SA to the dark unless otherwise noted.

Pressing instructions are highlighted in yellow throughout this tutorial to make them easy to spot.

Take a quick Sewing Test to confirm your 1/4" seam allowance is exact. It's worth the couple of minutes it'll take.

And finally, starched quilt fabric just makes everything easier and more accurate. Learn the how's and why's of starching here.

Download and print paper piecing patterns

NOTE: If you'd prefer not to paper piece ('cause it's like sticking a needle in your eye), click here to go directly to the cutting chart and instructions for a traditionally pieced Diamond Ring block.

To download the pattern, use the most current version of Adobe.

For accurate results, on Adobe's Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100%. Then print.

Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.

Choose your finished block size from the chart below and print the corresponding number of pages for a total of 4 BWs and 4 FG.

Print the BW and FG Paper Piecing Patterns Print 1 copy each for 1 block, except 2 copies of the BW for the 16"block
Finished Block Size	Finished FG Unit Size	Finished BW Unit Size
8"	1" x 2"	2"
10"	1¼' x 2½"	2½"
12"	1½" x 3"	3"
16"	2" x 4"	4"

After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed page(s) to double check that your patterns printed at the correct size.

The newest quilt fabrics to tickle your fancy...

Click the images below to see the full collection. We share any commercial and/or free patterns that showcase them, too. (For inspiration, of course!)

Dutchy Blues Batiks fabric collection by Jacqueline de Jonge for Anthology Fabrics

Dutchy Blues Batiks
Jacqueline de Jonge
Anthology Fabrics

Deco Glow II fabric collection by Giucy Giuce for Andover

Deco Glow II
Giucy Giuce
Andover

Magnolia
Andover

✂️Cutting patches for a paper pieced Diamond Ring quilt block

Diamond Ring design

Sample Block Size: 10" finished / 10½" unfinished

Grid: 8×8

Attribution: Clara Stone

AKA: Fanny's Favorite (Ladies Art Company), Grandma's Choice (Needle Craft Supply), My Favorite (Nancy Cabot), Old Favorite (Nancy Cabot)

Design Type: Uneven 9-patch, small center |. Paper Piecing

Label your patches. We use the numbers all through this tutorial.

It's important to choose fabrics with high contrast so all the points you piece show up.

In the sample block, my go-to, a neutral Moda Grunge, is used for the background (Bac) and an older fun little swirly pink is used for the darker A fabric. (I oh-so wish I could find more of this one...)

To print a copy of just the block design above and cutting chart below to use at your cutting table, click here.

			Cutting Chart for a Diamond Ring Quilt Block ~ Paper Piecing ~
Patch	Fabric	Qty	Finished Block Size				Sub Cut
Patch	Fabric	Qty	8''	10''	12''	16''	Sub Cut
BW-1	A	4	1¾'' x 1¾''	2'' x 2''	2¼'' x 2¼''	2¾'' x 2¾''	---
BW-2 BW-3 Sky	Bac	8	2⅜'' x 2⅜''	2⅝'' x 2⅝''	2⅞'' x 2⅞''	3⅜'' x 3⅜''
BW-4	A	2	3⅜'' x 3⅜''	3⅞'' x 3⅞''	4⅜'' x 4⅜''	5⅜'' x 5⅜''
Goose	A	1	3⅝'' x 3⅝''	4⅛'' x 4⅛''	4⅝'' x 4⅝''	5⅝'' x 5⅝''
5	Bac	8	1½'' x 2½''	1¾'' x 3''	2'' x 3½''	2½'' x 4½''	---
6	A	4	1½'' x 1½''	1¾'' x 1¾''	2'' x 2''	2½'' x 2½''	---
7	Bac	4	2½'' x 2½''	3'' x 3''	3½'' x 3½''	4½'' x 4½''	---
8	A	1	2½'' x 2½''	3'' x 3''	3½'' x 3½''	4½'' 4½''	---
Unfinished Block Size			8½''	10½''	12½''	16½''	na
Grid Size			1''	1¼''	1½''	2''	na

After all the patches are cut, check to see that you've got the subcutting done, too. Use the little symbols in the cutting chart to help. Don't forget to label them. It's easy to get the #6s and BW1s mixed up.

All the patches after the subcutting is finished

The cut patches for a paper pieced Diamond Ring quilt block

Tip for using fabrics whose back and front are easily confused

I love the look of Moda's Grunge for my backgrounds. The subtle texture adds movement to the blocks without distracting from your piecing.

But man-O-man, it sure is easy to confuse the right and wrong sides. <hangs head in shame>

To keep my patches straight, I'll lay all my Grunge patches, say the #7s, right side up, and then put a pin through the top. The patches can't get mixed up. I simply remove the bottom patch to use in construction. Without looking, I know which way is up.

All the patches in a group are right side up with a pin through the top

In the photo above, you can see where the #5, #7, and BW2, BW3 and Sky patches are pinned this way.

A simple solution for a pesky problem.

🪡Paper piecing the units for a Diamond Ring block

To prepare your paper piecing patterns, cut out four of each for the FB and BW units. Don't bother to cut exactly on the outside dashed line.

A bit beyond is good enough for now.

General Sewing Machine Setup for Paperpiecing

Reduce your stitch length to 16–20 stitches per inch (1.3-1.6 mm). This perforates the paper and stabilizes the seam when you remove the pattern. [Learn more about stitch length here.]

Reduce your machine's speed or just plain slow down. Sew only as fast as you can stay on the stitching lines.

Install an open toe appliqué foot (sometimes called an 'embroidery' or 'satin stitch' foot) if you have one (it's easier to see where you're stitching with one installed).

Use a larger needle (90/14) if you have problems removing the pattern.

If your machine has a needle stop up, use it. The stitching goes faster when you don't have to lift the presser foot with every seam.

As you stitch each seam, start and stop a generous 1/4” before and after the solid stitching lines. ALWAYS. Future lines of stitching secure the ends.

After adding each patch, press the unit as it was sewn to set the seam and then open. The SA is automatically pressed towards the last patch added.

Before adding the next patch, take a look to make sure the one you just added covers the space plus seam allowance that it is supposed to.

Steam is optional and usually curls the pattern.

If that bothers you, don't use steam. Sometimes I do. Sometimes I don't.

It truly depends on my mood.

Remember, as you follow this paper piecing tutorial, the printed and the fabric sides of this block are mirror-images of each other.

At last!

Let's sew!

Use the tiniest dab of Elmer's Washable Glue Stick to position the BW-1 and Goose to the unprinted side of the corresponding pattern. The patches need to stay put for the first seam...not for eternity.

The dashed guidelines make positioning quick, easy and accurate to do.

Once all 8 are in place, you can put away the glue stick.

Use a dab of Elmer's Glue stitck to hold the first patch on the BW and FG units in position

Can you use pins?

Of course, you can! But they have a tendency to distort the pattern. Gluestick is quick, easy, and cheap...and readily available.

Brave World (BW)

Make 4

With RST, line up the short side of a BW2 with the edge of BW1.

Since we're adding a lighter patch over a darker one, I've nudged BW2 a few threads past the edge of BW1 (pink arrow) to prevent the darker fabric from shadowing through the top of the block. The patches are cut big enough to do this.

Do take a second to flip open BW2 while you're holding it to make sure you've got it in the right position.

Sew, starting and ending a generous 1/4" past the solid line between the two patches on the pattern.

All your seams are stitched this way. The stitching that crosses these stitches secures them...just like in traditional piecing.

Press.

Repeat these steps when you add BW-3 to the adjacent side of BW-1.

I've done that same 'nudging' here, too. (pink arrow)

Press.

Trim away any thread tails in the center on the paper side of the pattern with scissors.

There's no need to do anything with the ones on the outside edge of the BW. They'll all be removed as you trim away excess seam allowances.

To create the perfect placement line for BW-4, at your cutting mat, paper side up, align the edge of your ruler with the solid line between BW-4 and BW2/BW3.

With your fingernail, crease the pattern along the solid line and fold it back on itself. You will rip the paper a bit. That is just fine.

If you think it's ripped too much, use a bit of Scotch Brand Magic Tape® to repair it. Remember, NEVER press on the tape with your iron.

Line up the 1/4" line on your ruler with this folded edge and cut away the excess (pink arrow) to create the perfect 1/4" SA.

Trim away the excess BW2 and BW3 to leave a perfect 1/4" seam allowance

Back at your machine, with RST, align the newly cut edge and the long side of BW4.

This time, we're adding a darker patch over a lighter one. No chance of this shadowing through. No need to nudge BW4.

Position BW4 RST with the BW2/BW3 freshly trimmed edge

Sew the seam, again starting and stopping outside the dashed lines that surround the block.

Since this stitching runs from outside edge to outside edge, you CAN chain piece this last seam in your BWs. (YES! There's chain piecing in paper piecing!)

Press.

Trim the block to perfection.

At your cutting mat, paper side up, line up the 1/4" mark on your ruler with the solid outline around the BW. Trim away the excess.

Repeat for each side of all four BWs.

Trim the excess away from the finished Brave World units

Here's what it looks like before (left) and after (right) trimming.

Ooh-la-la! That looks nice!

Remove that paper and give your BWs a final press.

Set aside.

Flying Geese

Make 4

With RST, align the long bias edge of a Sky with either short side of the Goose.

It doesn't matter which side you start on, though I heartily recommend being consistent in your choice.

We've nudged the lighter Sky a few threads past the edge of the darker Goose to prevent shadowing.

If you start on the right, always start on the right.

It's easier to keep your patches organized and get a nice rhythm to your stitching when you're making lots of blocks.

Start and stop this seam a generous 1/4" before and after the solid sewing line.

Just like that last seam in the BWs, you can chain piece both seams in your FGs.

Press.

Repeat these steps for the second Sky to complete each FG.

Position the second Sky, RST with the second short side of the Goose

Press.

Remove the papers after trimming to perfection.

Give the units one final press.

Return your sewing machine to your everyday settings.

We stitch the remainder of the block with traditional techniques.

Install your favorite quarter inch presser foot. Adjust the needle position if needed. Return to your normal piecing stitch length.

NOTE: From this point forward, regardless of whether you paper pieced or traditionally pieced the units, the instructions are the same.

FGSides

Make 4

With RST, sew a FG to a #7 square.

The SA is pressed toward #7.

Use the chart below to check your accuracy.

After sewing, all FGSide units measure...
Finished Block Size	Edge-to-edge Measurement
8"	2½" x 3½"
10"	3" x 4¼"
12"	3½" x 5"
16"	4½" x 6½"

Corners

Make 4

With RST, sew a #6 to #5, and a #5 to the left side of a BW as shown below.

SAs are pressed toward the #5s.

Lay out the patches for a Corner unit--one #6, two #5, and one BW

With RST, sew the #5/#6 to the #5/BW. Pin as needed for a good match at the seam. (Those seams nest and make this job easier.)

Press this SA away from the BW unit.

Here is a finished Corner.

Repeat for a total of four.

After sewing, all Corners measure...
Finished Block Size	Edge-to-edge Measurement
8"	3½" x 3½"
10"	4¼" x 4¼"
12"	5" x 5"
16"	6½" x 6½"

🧩Assemble your Diamond Ring block

Arrange the #8 center square and all the corner and side units into the Diamond Ring design—dark squares in the four corners with BWs on the inside.

Arrange your units to form the Diamond Ring design

There's a lot of movement in the design already, isn't there? And the piecing was a piece o' cake!

With RST, stitch the patches together into horizontal rows.

Nested SAs make it easier to match all those pointy-points. (This is one of the biggest benefits of paper piecing—if you've deliberately stitched on the line, the points are effortlessly at the 1/4" seam allowance.)

In all these rows, press the SA towards the FGSides.