Air Castle Quilt Block Tutorial: From Foundation to Fortress

Building beautiful blocks doesn't have to be a royal pain 👑❤️

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Have you ever finished piecing a block and felt that rush of "I actually made that?!" pride?

The Air Castle quilt block delivers that feeling in spades!

I still remember my first attempt at paper piecing—my seam ripper got more action than my sewing machine! But every quilter has those moments, right? 🏰✂️

Air Castle quilt block

Whether you're sewing at midnight after the kids are in bed, squeezing in stitches during lunch breaks, or dedicating your weekend to fabric therapy, this tutorial fits into your real life.

We tackle each step together, celebrating those little victories (like when your Square in a Square actually turns out square!). I've included my personal "been there, done that" tips to help you avoid the mistakes I've already made. Because that's what quilting friends are for!

Ready to start building your castle?

Our quilting time is precious (and sometimes happens in stolen moments between life's demands), so I've created these handy shortcuts to help you navigate this tutorial.

📋  General Instructions

Several abbreviations are used on this page. They are:

  • SA - seam allowance
  • RST - right sides together
  • HST - Half Square Triangle
  • QST - 3-Patch Quarter Square Triangle
  • SiaS - Square in a Square

A 1/4" SA is used in this tutorial.

Highlighted in yellow, pressing instructions are easy to spot.

To press, first press the patches in the closed position as they came off your sewing machine. This sets the seam, melding the fibers of the threads into the fibers of the fabric.

Then press the SA to the dark unless otherwise noted.

📥  Download and print the paper piecing pattern

Something to print

To download the pattern, use the most current version of Adobe.

For accurate results, on Adobe's Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100%. Then print.

Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.

Find your finished block size from the chart below. For each block you want to make, print the corresponding number of copies for a total of:

  • Four 3-Patch QST (B units)
  • One SiaS

Download and Print 3-Patch QST and SiaS Units

Finished
Block Size
3-Patch QST (B Unit) SiaS
# of copies Download Download
Print 1 copy
4½'' 1 1½" 1½"
6'' 1 2" 2"
7½'' 1 2½" 2½"
9'' 1 3" 3"
12'' 2 4" 4"

After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed page(s) to double check that your patterns printed at the correct size.

Then cut out the required number of patterns from your copies. A rough cut is good enough—an 1/8"-1/4"-ish away from the outside dashed square.  Don't worry about perfect pattern cutting here; we just need them separated and ready to use.

The real magic happens when the fabric meets paper! 🧙‍♀️✂️

Read my review of 6 paper piecing papers available on the market

Not sure which paper to use?

Take a look at my review of several of the most popular brands available to us quilters on the market.

You want a super-easy paper to tear away—less stress on the stitches. 

The newest quilt fabrics to tickle your fancy...

Click the images below to see the full collection. We share any commercial and/or free patterns that showcase them, too. (For inspiration, of course!)

✂️  Cutting patches for an Air Castle quilt  block

Air Castle quilt block designAir Castle design

Sample Block Size:  9" finished / 9½" unfinished

Grid:  6x6 

Attribution:  Ladies Art Company

Barbara Brackman: #1704

AKA:  Towers of Camelot (Nancy Cabot)

Design Type:  Star  |  Equal 9 Patch   |  Paper piecing

Please label all your patches—we use their numbers throughout this tutorial, and this simple step prevents the frustrating "which piece is which?" mystery later on.

Something free to download and print is in the link to the right

To print a copy of the paper pieced Air Castle block design and cutting chart to use at your cutting table, click here.

Generations Quilt Patterns logo

Cutting Chart for a
Air Castle Quilt Block

~ Paper PLUS Traditional Piecing ~

PatchFabricQtyFinished Block SizeSub
Cut
4½'' 6'' 7½'' 9'' 12''
HST-1
QST-3
Bac 4 2¾'' x 2¾'' 3¼'' x 3¼'' 3¾'' x 3¾'' 4¼'' x 4¼'' 5¼'' x 5¼'' Symbol for a half square triangle
HST-2 A 2 2¾'' x 2¾'' 3¼'' x 3¼'' 3¾'' x 3¾'' 4¼'' x 4¼'' 5¼'' x 5¼'' Symbol for a half square triangle
QST-1 A 1 3¼'' x 3¼'' 3¾'' x 3¾'' 4¼'' x 4¼'' 4¾'' x 4¾'' 5¾'' x 5¾'' Symbol for a quarter square triangle
QST-2 Bac 1 3¼'' x 3¼'' 3¾'' x 3¾'' 4¼'' x 4¼'' 4¾'' x 4¾'' 5¾'' x 5¾'' Symbol for a quarter square triangle
Center.1 Bac 1 1½'' x 1½'' 1⅞'' x 1⅞'' 2¼'' x 2¼'' 2⅝'' x 2⅝'' 3⅜'' x 3⅜'' ---
C.2, C.3
C.4, C.5
A 2 2⅛'' x 2⅛'' 2⅜'' x 2⅜'' 2⅝'' x 2⅝'' 2⅞'' x 2⅞'' 3⅜'' x 3⅜'' Symbol for a half square triangle
Unfinished Block Size 5'' 6½'' 8'' 9½'' 12½'' na
Grid Size 3/4'' 1'' 1¼'' 1½'' 2'' na

Subcutting

Follow the instructions in the cutting chart (far right column) to subcut your patches. Yours will look something like this.

The subcut patches for our block

🧵Create the units for your Air Castle block

Since we're paper piecing a couple of the units, we'll get that prep work done now.

Use a tiniest dot of Elmer's Washable Glue Stick to hold the QST.1 and Center.1 patches in position on the unprinted side of the pattern. Use those dashed lines around the first patch to quickly position it.

Position the first patch for the SiaS and QSTsWhat's that highlighted QST.1 for? For the first sample block I made, I glued the background patch in that space. Totally discombobulated the SAs. Using a highlighter on the pattern is cheap bit of insurance.

That's it for the gluing, you can put the glue stick away now.

3 Patch QST

Make 4

3 Patch QST from the pattern (left) and the fabric (right) side3 Patch QST - notice the fabric side is the reverse of the pattern side. Your eyes aren't fooling you.

We need to make a few adjustments to our sewing machine settings to paper piece.

  • Reduce your stitch length to 16–20 stitches per inch (1.3-1.6 mm). This perforates the paper and stabilizes the seam when you remove the pattern. [Learn more about stitch length here.]
  • Reduce your machine's speed or just plain slow down. Sew only as fast as you can AND stay on the solid stitching line.
  • Install an open toe appliqué foot (sometimes called an 'embroidery' or 'satin stitch' foot) if you have one (it's easier to see where you're stitching with one installed). 

With RST, layer the QST.2 with QST.1, edges even and lined up with the dashed lines. Taking an extra second or two here, means you won't need to trim the SA once the patches are stitched together. We quilters like to work smarter, not harder!

Layer QST.1 and QST.2 with right sides together

From the printed side, sew starting past the outside dashed line, then onto the solid line between QST.1/QST.2 and off the line to about the tip of the blue arrow below.

Sew the seam to join QST.1 and QST.2

Press.

Take a quick look to confirm the edges of QST.1/QST.2 are 1/4" from the solid line. Trim if needed.

Cut away the thread tail (blue arrow) now. It's easy to forget and who wants to be trimming all kinds of threads from the back of your finished block or quilt.

Check the accuracy of the SA and trim away the thread tail

With RST, line up the edges of QST.3 with QST.1/QST.2. I nudge QST.3 a couple of threads past the edge (blue arrow) to prevent the darked fabric from shadowing through the lighter one.

Layer the QST.3 with QST.1/QST.2

Stitch from the printed side, starting and ending past the outside dashed square that surrounds the block.

Sew the final seam

Press and set the four completed QSTs aside.

SiaS

Make 1    

SiaS unit

With RST, layer C.2 with Center.1, aligning the edges.

Layer C.2 with Center.1

Sew the seam to join these units starting and ending past the outside dashed lines.

Fingerpress C.2 open and out of the way.

With RST, align the edges of C.3 with Center.1.

Position C.3

Sew the seam.

This time give the unit a real press with your iron.

Position C.4, edges even with Center.1.

Position C.4See those dog ears pointing up? I trim those away with my scissor after stitching the seam to remove bulk.

Stitch.

Fingerpress C.4 out of the way and position C.5. 

Sew the seam.

Position C.5Don't forget to trim away the dog ears after sewing.

Give your SiaS a good press with the iron.

I'll confess—I used to leave all those dog ears in place on a block, thinking "how much difference could it make?"

Let's just say my quilt looked like it had a case of the quilting mumps! Now I always trim the little fellows away. Your seams (and sanity) will thank you! 🐶✂️

Trimming your QSTs and SiaS

With your unit pattern side up on your cutting mat, position the 1/4" mark over one side of the solid square that surrounds your QST.  (blue arrow) Trim away the excess.

Trim the first side of a QST

Repeat for all the sides.

This simple technique takes your block from a hot mess (left) to perfection (center) with little waste (right). A small sacrifice for an accurate, easy to piece unit.

An untrimmed QST (left), after trimming (center), and the waste (right)An untrimmed QST (left), after trimming (center), and the waste (right)

Trim your SiaS in the same manner.

Time to remove the paper pattern

All our edges are purposefully cut to create a unit with outside edges on the straight of grain—just like a traditionally pieced quilt block.

The paper no longer serves a purpose. Get rid of it!

The units after removing the paper

💡 Helpful Hint: 

To minimize any stitches pulling out at the corners, start ripping from the center of the QST.3 patch as shown below. Then rip the remainder away starting again in the middle.

For QST.1&2, pull the paper away from the center to the corner.

After ripping away part of the QST.3 pattern starting from the middle

The paper piecing is complete. From this point forward, return your stitch length to the one you regularly use for piecing and install your favorite 1/4" presser foot.

HST

Make 4    

HST unitHST

We return to traditional techniques to piece our HSTs.

With RST, pair an HST-1 with an HST-2, and stitch 1/4" from the long edge.

As you stitch, remember YOU are the guide. Let the sewing machine do the work of pulling the patches through your machine. That way you won't stretch the bias edge.

Sew an HST-1 to an HST-2I've got my go-to 1/4" foot installed...the one with a guide or flange on the right side.

Repeat for all 4 pairs.

Press these HSTs with the SA towards the DARK HST-2. Seems weird, right?

This is one of those occassions where we're pressing to create nested seam allowances, which in turn makes matching points easier.

Use the chart below find the size to trim your HSTs:

HST Dimensions

Finished
Block Size
Trim HST to…
4½'' 2"
6'' 2½"
7½'' 3"
9'' 3½"
12'' 4½"

At your cutting mat, position a square ruler with the 45° line over the seam allowance.  We started with over-sized patches so there should be a bit of fabric exposed on the top and right side. 

Trim away the excess with your rotary cutter.

Trim the first 2 sides of your HST

Flip your block 180°, position the ruler again with the 45° line directly over the seam.

The freshly cut edges are at the 'Trim HST to...' measurement. That's 3½" for our 9" finished sample Air Castle block. (hot pink arrows)

Trim away the excess.

Trim the final 2 sides of your HST

Repeat for all 4 HSTs.

🧩  Final Assembly of an Air Castle quilt block

All our attention to detail pays off now. We've got perfectly sized patches with seams that'll nest to make matching points a breeze.

Arrange your patches as shown below:

  • SiaS in the center
  • HSTs with the light triangle in the corners
  • QSTs with the dark patch on the outside edge
Arrange your patches to create the Air Castle design

Did you catch it?

In the arrangement the HST in the upper right corner is positioned wrong. It's so easy to do. It's good practice to flip open your patches before sewing them together. That saved my bacon  🥓 this time!

With RST, join the units in each row together. The seams of the QST and HST nest becaue we pressed those HST to the dark side.

Use pins to hold the points and edges together as needed.

Our Air Castle is in rows with pressing direction arrows included

The SAs in each row are pressed toward the QSTs.

Finally sew the rows together, matching the points at the outside edges and the SA in the center. Again, pins are your friends.

Here is our finished Air Castle quilt block, freshly pressed.

The finished, pressed Air Castle quilt block

And from the backside to see how our pressing helps us with assembly. Those last two seams are pressed away from the the SiaS to minimize bulk.

The Air Castle quilt block sample from the back side

Until next time, may your seams be straight and your bobbins be full!

📌  Royal Decree: Pin This Tutorial! 📌👑

By order of your inner Quilting Monarch, save these castle construction plans for future creative conquests. 

One click saves hours of searching later.

Remember to pin this Air Castle quilt block tutorial for easy reference

🔭 Looking for something truly stellar? 

You've finished your star quilt block, and you're ready for more!

Browse our collection of 60 stellar star quilt block patterns. All have instructions and cutting charts in multiple sizes. If templates or paper piecing is used in the tutorial, there's a free download for you of those materials.

Star quilt block patterns found on this website

Eeny. Meenie. Miney. Moe.

Which star quilt block will you sew?

For even MORE blocks to make... 🧩🎨

There's more quilt blocks to make

...visit our Free Quilt Block Pattern Library, with over 230+ blocks to choose from in multiple sizes.

Free downloads are included in all sizes for any blocks require paper piecing patterns or templates.


This article was printed from Generations-Quilt-Patterns.com

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