Building beautiful blocks doesn't have to be a royal pain 👑❤️
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Have you ever finished piecing a block and felt that rush of "I actually made that?!" pride?
The Air Castle quilt block delivers that feeling in spades!
I still remember my first attempt at paper piecing—my seam ripper got more action than my sewing machine! But every quilter has those moments, right? 🏰✂️
Whether you're sewing at midnight after the kids are in bed, squeezing in stitches during lunch breaks, or dedicating your weekend to fabric therapy, this tutorial fits into your real life.
We tackle each step together, celebrating those little victories (like when your Square in a Square actually turns out square!). I've included my personal "been there, done that" tips to help you avoid the mistakes I've already made. Because that's what quilting friends are for!
Ready to start building your castle?
Our quilting time is precious (and sometimes happens in stolen moments between life's demands), so I've created these handy shortcuts to help you navigate this tutorial.
Several abbreviations are used on this page. They are:
A 1/4" SA is used in this tutorial.
Highlighted in yellow, pressing instructions are easy to spot.
To press, first press the patches in the closed position as they came off your sewing machine. This sets the seam, melding the fibers of the threads into the fibers of the fabric.
Then press the SA to the dark unless otherwise noted.
To download the pattern, use the most current version of Adobe.
For accurate results, on Adobe's Print Menu page, under 'Page Size and Handling' set 'Custom Scale' to 100%. Then print.
Click here to see what it looks like on the Print Menu page.
Find your finished block size from the chart below. For each block you want to make, print the corresponding number of copies for a total of:
Download and Print 3-Patch QST and SiaS Units | |||
---|---|---|---|
Finished Block Size | 3-Patch QST (B Unit) | SiaS | |
# of copies | Download | Download Print 1 copy | |
4½'' | 1 | 1½" | 1½" |
6'' | 1 | 2" | 2" |
7½'' | 1 | 2½" | 2½" |
9'' | 1 | 3" | 3" |
12'' | 2 | 4" | 4" |
After printing, use the 1" square graphic on the printed page(s) to double check that your patterns printed at the correct size.
Then cut out the required number of patterns from your copies. A rough cut is good enough—an 1/8"-1/4"-ish away from the outside dashed square. Don't worry about perfect pattern cutting here; we just need them separated and ready to use.
The real magic happens when the fabric meets paper! 🧙♀️✂️
Take a look at my review of several of the most popular brands available to us quilters on the market.
You want a super-easy paper to tear away—less stress on the stitches.
Click the images below to see the full collection. We share any commercial and/or free patterns that showcase them, too. (For inspiration, of course!)
Sample Block Size: 9" finished / 9½" unfinished
Grid: 6x6
Attribution: Ladies Art Company
Barbara Brackman: #1704
AKA: Towers of Camelot (Nancy Cabot)
Design Type: Star | Equal 9 Patch | Paper piecing
Please label all your patches—we use their numbers throughout this tutorial, and this simple step prevents the frustrating "which piece is which?" mystery later on.
![]() | Cutting Chart for a~ Paper PLUS Traditional Piecing ~ | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Patch | Fabric | Qty | Finished Block Size | Sub Cut | ||||
4½'' | 6'' | 7½'' | 9'' | 12'' | ||||
HST-1 QST-3 | Bac | 4 | 2¾'' x 2¾'' | 3¼'' x 3¼'' | 3¾'' x 3¾'' | 4¼'' x 4¼'' | 5¼'' x 5¼'' | ![]() |
HST-2 | A | 2 | 2¾'' x 2¾'' | 3¼'' x 3¼'' | 3¾'' x 3¾'' | 4¼'' x 4¼'' | 5¼'' x 5¼'' | ![]() |
QST-1 | A | 1 | 3¼'' x 3¼'' | 3¾'' x 3¾'' | 4¼'' x 4¼'' | 4¾'' x 4¾'' | 5¾'' x 5¾'' | ![]() |
QST-2 | Bac | 1 | 3¼'' x 3¼'' | 3¾'' x 3¾'' | 4¼'' x 4¼'' | 4¾'' x 4¾'' | 5¾'' x 5¾'' | ![]() |
Center.1 | Bac | 1 | 1½'' x 1½'' | 1⅞'' x 1⅞'' | 2¼'' x 2¼'' | 2⅝'' x 2⅝'' | 3⅜'' x 3⅜'' | --- |
C.2, C.3 C.4, C.5 | A | 2 | 2⅛'' x 2⅛'' | 2⅜'' x 2⅜'' | 2⅝'' x 2⅝'' | 2⅞'' x 2⅞'' | 3⅜'' x 3⅜'' | ![]() |
Unfinished Block Size | 5'' | 6½'' | 8'' | 9½'' | 12½'' | na | ||
Grid Size | 3/4'' | 1'' | 1¼'' | 1½'' | 2'' | na |
Follow the instructions in the cutting chart (far right column) to subcut your patches. Yours will look something like this.
Since we're paper piecing a couple of the units, we'll get that prep work done now.
Use a tiniest dot of Elmer's Washable Glue Stick to hold the QST.1 and Center.1 patches in position on the unprinted side of the pattern. Use those dashed lines around the first patch to quickly position it.
That's it for the gluing, you can put the glue stick away now.
Make 4
We need to make a few adjustments to our sewing machine settings to paper piece.
With RST, layer the QST.2 with QST.1, edges even and lined up with the dashed lines. Taking an extra second or two here, means you won't need to trim the SA once the patches are stitched together. We quilters like to work smarter, not harder!
From the printed side, sew starting past the outside dashed line, then onto the solid line between QST.1/QST.2 and off the line to about the tip of the blue arrow below.
Press.
Take a quick look to confirm the edges of QST.1/QST.2 are 1/4" from the solid line. Trim if needed.
Cut away the thread tail (blue arrow) now. It's easy to forget and who wants to be trimming all kinds of threads from the back of your finished block or quilt.
With RST, line up the edges of QST.3 with QST.1/QST.2. I nudge QST.3 a couple of threads past the edge (blue arrow) to prevent the darked fabric from shadowing through the lighter one.
Stitch from the printed side, starting and ending past the outside dashed square that surrounds the block.
Press and set the four completed QSTs aside.
Make 1
With RST, layer C.2 with Center.1, aligning the edges.
Sew the seam to join these units starting and ending past the outside dashed lines.
Fingerpress C.2 open and out of the way.
With RST, align the edges of C.3 with Center.1.
Sew the seam.
This time give the unit a real press with your iron.
Position C.4, edges even with Center.1.
Stitch.
Fingerpress C.4 out of the way and position C.5.
Sew the seam.
Give your SiaS a good press with the iron.
I'll confess—I used to leave all those dog ears in place on a block, thinking "how much difference could it make?"
Let's just say my quilt looked like it had a case of the quilting mumps! Now I always trim the little fellows away. Your seams (and sanity) will thank you! 🐶✂️
With your unit pattern side up on your cutting mat, position the 1/4" mark over one side of the solid square that surrounds your QST. (blue arrow) Trim away the excess.
Repeat for all the sides.
This simple technique takes your block from a hot mess (left) to perfection (center) with little waste (right). A small sacrifice for an accurate, easy to piece unit.
Trim your SiaS in the same manner.
All our edges are purposefully cut to create a unit with outside edges on the straight of grain—just like a traditionally pieced quilt block.
The paper no longer serves a purpose. Get rid of it!
💡 Helpful Hint:
To minimize any stitches pulling out at the corners, start ripping from the center of the QST.3 patch as shown below. Then rip the remainder away starting again in the middle.
For QST.1&2, pull the paper away from the center to the corner.
The paper piecing is complete. From this point forward, return your stitch length to the one you regularly use for piecing and install your favorite 1/4" presser foot.
Make 4
We return to traditional techniques to piece our HSTs.
With RST, pair an HST-1 with an HST-2, and stitch 1/4" from the long edge.
As you stitch, remember YOU are the guide. Let the sewing machine do the work of pulling the patches through your machine. That way you won't stretch the bias edge.
Repeat for all 4 pairs.
Press these HSTs with the SA towards the DARK HST-2. Seems weird, right?
This is one of those occassions where we're pressing to create nested seam allowances, which in turn makes matching points easier.
Use the chart below find the size to trim your HSTs:
HST Dimensions | |
---|---|
Finished Block Size | Trim HST to… |
4½'' | 2" |
6'' | 2½" |
7½'' | 3" |
9'' | 3½" |
12'' | 4½" |
At your cutting mat, position a square ruler with the 45° line over the seam allowance. We started with over-sized patches so there should be a bit of fabric exposed on the top and right side.
Trim away the excess with your rotary cutter.
Flip your block 180°, position the ruler again with the 45° line directly over the seam.
The freshly cut edges are at the 'Trim HST to...' measurement. That's 3½" for our 9" finished sample Air Castle block. (hot pink arrows)
Trim away the excess.
Repeat for all 4 HSTs.
All our attention to detail pays off now. We've got perfectly sized patches with seams that'll nest to make matching points a breeze.
Arrange your patches as shown below:
Did you catch it?
In the arrangement the HST in the upper right corner is positioned wrong. It's so easy to do. It's good practice to flip open your patches before sewing them together. That saved my bacon 🥓 this time!
With RST, join the units in each row together. The seams of the QST and HST nest becaue we pressed those HST to the dark side.
Use pins to hold the points and edges together as needed.
The SAs in each row are pressed toward the QSTs.
Finally sew the rows together, matching the points at the outside edges and the SA in the center. Again, pins are your friends.
Here is our finished Air Castle quilt block, freshly pressed.
And from the backside to see how our pressing helps us with assembly. Those last two seams are pressed away from the the SiaS to minimize bulk.
Until next time, may your seams be straight and your bobbins be full!
By order of your inner Quilting Monarch, save these castle construction plans for future creative conquests.
One click saves hours of searching later.
These are all 9-patch quilt designs with a QST unit on each side.
You've finished your star quilt block, and you're ready for more!
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Eeny. Meenie. Miney. Moe.
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